Friday, January 7, 2011

TRAVEL: Christmas, New Years & Berlin

After cracking two great jokes in the space of 24 hours upon arriving in Berlin, I knew I was in the right frame of mind/spirit to enjoy the trip.  The first joke, was told a few hours in as the feel of the freeze (proper freeze, not London fluff) hit my cheeks.  I said to the marching party "They should rename it Brrrlin".  I don't think many of the gang actually heard it coz no one laughed per say, but my inner comedian told me it was genius.  The second joke came the next morning when we cracked open some local toast strawberry spread.  I again quipped "Does it say on the back, made in Jam-many?"  Kelley laughed at that,... once I broke it down and explained that because its Jam made in Germany, the play on words to combine the two is what makes it funny....

Kelley and Andrew enjoy the mega snow in Berlin
My point in recalling these jokes (other than their obvious hilarity) is that Berlin, after one survives the sting of subzero (like minus 15 subzero), welcomes you with this relaxed aura, ever-present as its winter snow.  Poetic I know (strings to the bow), but I found it to be true, more often than not.  Sure there was the odd instance where a bar owner would yell "Nein!" as soon as you walked in the door, but they were instances few and far between.  The people were otherwise, jovial and warm, if only by way of their quirky remarks.  "Good luck boy" by a wench to Chris before a typically large meal serving was my favourite mainly because I don't think she spoke any real English at all, but happened to know that particular catchphrase, and its supremely appropriate use.

A meal for one in Berlin
Germans seem to love and take pride in their food.  The first morning, our xmas food package arrived, fetched by a commissioned local, which included prepared Goose & Duck with pickled trimmings, vegetables, cheeses, spreads and sweets.  This was not an expensive posh elitist assortment.  Just normal good quality eat.  Seeing so clearly, the care and delicacy within each item of produce, I felt completely at ease with anything the Germans had to offer with respect to culinary cuisine.  My fear and anxiety about food (that had come about from my first egg experience in London) had vanished.  My trust was such, that even if I had witnessed chefs playing slap my sausage in the kitchen, I still would've eaten the dishes served.  The sausage by the way, is the national meat of Germany.  Mostly in Bratwurst form, which is kinda like a hotdog, but twice in sausage length, half in bun, and good tasting.  


Our Xmas Spread

Yohei and the Bratwurst


           
Of course you can't experience present day Germany without the past.  Its history is, what it has become today.  Its difficult to recall or examine feelings upon the visiting of places that should have in themselves such gravity due to the weight of events previously occurred.  This is mostly because the nature of these places now has an exhibited feel.  Checkpoint Charlie is bordered up with informational billboards, and the Museum itself was overloaded, with some slightly bizarre additions (Picasso section?).  The monument outside the Jewish memorial could've been stirring, if not for the school group in attendance playing run-maze through the pillars (strangely encouraged by their minders) and Hitler's Bunker exists now as a carpark with an easily missed sign board.  I suppose the third party view in an environment of tourists makes it hard to connect emotionally, but there were a few moments for me that struck out as heavy.  The first being a photo from Checkpoint Charlie, of a boy in mid-flight falling from a high apartment window.  Towards the top it shows his parents above watching desperately, as the catching party below reacts on the pavement.  The caption however reads he did not survive the attempt.  The other throat sinker was the letters left by mothers and children addressed to loved ones (later found by Russian Soldiers) detailing fears of their impending deaths en route to the concentration camps in the Jewish Memorial.  So personalised and human, they had in themselves the power to momentarily shift you there.  Too sad for some, as people left in tears.

2711 grey stone slabs make up the Jewish Memorial in Berlin
One exhibit/gallery I have to mention is the Topography of Terror.  Its a well documented photo/panel display mostly chronicling Himler's SS and their effect, influence within the Nazi Regime.  A fantastic layout and presentation, but what intrigued me was what happened at the end of our tour.  We arrived (along with a lot of other people) fairly late in the day and by the time we had finished, it was closing.  The staff then employed an interesting method to get the tourists out of the complex.  They automated all their windows in the building to open inside and let the freezing winter air in.  I couldn't help but wonder, where they had picked up this particular technique?... and if it was a little too fitting...

Art of Japan on the Berlin Wall
Got all the tough stuff out of the way a day or two before the New Years party in front of Brandenburg Gates (Holocaust is not what you want on the mind heading to a celebration).  Luckily when the night came, it was reasonably warm so I kitted light, donned the Aviators (peer pressure) and headed out with the group.  Not sure what the crowd estimate was for the evening (they reckon a million or 2) but it was very busy.  After getting our pat-down through security (girl, yes!) we were carried through the tide down the main road past the stage till we got clear 500m down the track to an opening.  Feet were completely wet by this stage from snow sludge, though this was expected an inevitable.  From there, we had a good view of a big screen from which we could see the stage action.  In the build up, they also showed the Auckland display of fireworks which was actually pretty spectacular.  I yelled and cheered "hooray" at that point before quickly switching to one of "homos!" when the Sydney display followed.  The performances were a funny mix.  The highlights were the dude that came out and did 'We Will Rock You' (after another chick failed miserably), Jolanda be Cool in his top hat, Paul Potts singing on time for New Years (though they nearly missed it with no countdown) and the Hoff stepping out on stage after, to bring it home.  This sent the Berliners into a frenzy as a guy next to me yelled "Dasse Dasse Dasse!" (think this was a mix of David & Hasselhoff put together).  We spent the rest of the night in this makeshift dancefloor tent thing.  Few drunken idiots about, but we rose above it.  Got some compliments on the Aviators.  "You're so cool!" & "I love your fucking look man" were the ones I remember.

InvAsian party troopers New Years Berlin 2010/11
Thus our night concluded and our stay in Berlin at an end.  Our next stop in Germany would be Koln.  I little known port city of hidden sausage adventures no doubt.  A post for another time.

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